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  #1  
Gammal 2013-05-20, 06:40
rallyjohans avatar
rallyjohan
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Standard Bästa sättet att få originalspisen i en GT att hålla med 350 HK

Tänkte att det vore lite trevligt att få lite bra tips och råd för oss med trimmade originalmotorer i våra GTs om hur man bör göra för att köra driftsäkert och ändå ha kul och kunna gasa. Ett motorbyte till en smidd botten med andra kolvar, stakar, vev osv vore ju såklart häftigt men har man inte resurserna så får man ju göra det bästa av det man har, och 350 hk är väl lite av en gräns innan de skär ihop som jag förstått det? Så alltså snika till det riktigt ordentligt och lura motorn att hålla ihop trots att man kör hårt med trim med andra ord.

Det jag tänker på är väl:

x Typ av olja
x Generella råd kring körning, varvtal, temperaturer osv
x Vad man absolut bör byta för att förlänga livslängden
x Om man kan byta kolvar osv och stoppa i den befintliga motorn som gör den mer hållbar.(ej mer effekt)
x Flaskhalsar som sliter/förkortar livslängden

Ja ni förstår grejen. Tror många skulle vara intresserade av lite info som sitter med en hyffsat standard GT som jag.
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  #2  
Gammal 2013-05-20, 12:25
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Byt olja ofta kör med sunt förnuft. Sen pajar den så pajar den:-)
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  #3  
Gammal 2013-05-20, 17:22
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Umm ok I don't have a gt but if I was starting all over modding my R then

1. Oil pressure gauge, if you haven't got pressure then your killing your engine simple, plus it also can give you early warning that your losing pressure so something's wrong before you kill the engine.

2. Oil temp gauge, tbh would say this is as important as no1 if you start to drive the engine hard before the oil has got warm your killing your engine, plus if your oil is getting to warm its losing its ability to protect your engine.

2a. If your oil is running to hot then an oil cooler is a most but make sure you buy a thermostated one.

3. Tbh personal choice what you do next but me I'd start to upgrade the running gear ie larger arb's, drop links and maybe an alk, this will make the car handle a lot better.

4. Brake upgrade, before you start to go faster get the car so it stops better this will increase your confidence in driving the car which I turn will make you faster for free

5. Decent tyres, yes you can buy cheap stuff that feels fine and lasts well but THERE is NO substitute for a decent set of tyres, its better to save up and buy decent first time you will be amazed how the car handles differently under a hard run at the weekend.

6. Engine oil, the heart blood of your engine tho only thing protecting the moving parts, yes a 5kr bilteama oil is oil but seriously come on guys don't be stupid buy your self a high performance oil that is designed to work under the extreme conditions you are going to running at.

7. A mapper, before you even start to mod the engine find your self a decent mapper that has experience and you feel comfortable talking to, ask him a 100 and 1 questions and talk to him about what you want the car todo/how you are going to use the car. Do research on him ask around.

7a. You are going to need more than one map if you really want to get the best out of your car, a track map is going to be totally different to a fast weekend map and at the same time your going to want a base map for normal day to day usage.

7b, stop getting fixed on Bhp figures it doesn't mean crap.

8. Engine modding where do you start well tbh that should be discussed with your mapper and only then should you start, there is no set rule for this as we all have different ideas and use our cars differently.
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Senast redigerad av TypeR den 2013-05-20 klockan 17:54.
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  #4  
Gammal 2013-05-20, 23:30
TypeRs avatar
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One of the weak spots we have is the intake temps if you can get these down it will give you free hp and the engine will run a lot healthier and less stress will be put on it so a win win situation.

1. Turbo, this guy is putting out some serious heat and the standard shield works but there is certainly better options out there, something like a Perrin turbo blanket is very good and a cheap upgrade.

2, Intake manifold, this guy gets very hot a cheap and effective mod is to grab some spacers, try to grab ones with built in gasket.

3, tmic, at the 350ish mark a tmic is fine but you might want to upgrade to slightly larger sti one

4, exhaust gases, ok so having lifted your intake manifold slightly the standard up pipe isn't going to fit so an upgraded pipe, something like a Harvey trick pipe is a great mod that will also increase spool at the same time.

4a, exhaust, a larger bore setup is a a great mod and there is a huge selection.

4b, cat, a sports catted down pipe is a good mod to do at the same time as the exhaust.

5, air filter, a larger free flowing filter is a most.

6, air intake, this is going to need looking at and modifying.

7. Turbo pipe, the standard plastic pipe is prone to crack and causes the air to tumble around, a free flowing upgraded pipe is a simple mod that can give you free hp and better spooling

Of course I'm no expert and these are just my thoughts on what I'd do if starting over, will post some more up later
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Senast redigerad av TypeR den 2013-05-20 klockan 23:46.
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  #5  
Gammal 2013-05-20, 23:44
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Har du inte råd att rasa motorn eller bygga ny så ska du inte åka på gränsen, fattar du inte det själv Johan? Framförallt inte på en bil du är beroende av, men kan du stå ut med att ha den ståendes i ett par månader så kör på bara. Växellådan lär ju inte hålla heller...

Sen tycker jag du ska satsa på väghållning och bromsar då du kör runt i ett slagskepp för tillfället, handla BC coilovers och lägg ner tanken på att köpa några sopslut märkesben för lika mkt. BC duger och kommer göra enorm skillnad till att börja med.

Sen fattar jag inte varför jag ens ger dig tips då du ändå kommer ignorera dom precis som du har gjort alla gånger tidigare...
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  #6  
Gammal 2013-05-20, 23:47
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Great writing and opinions/ideas. Thanks alot! think this thread should be placed in FAQ
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  #7  
Gammal 2013-05-21, 11:45
TypeRs avatar
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As ive said Before there is no real best to do list on the internals of the Engine as we all want different things so your mapper is the guy to talk to on this.

But one known fault that causes a lot of problems for Classic scoobys is the oil pump/oil feed.

1, The oil pump is going to need to be changed for a modified one at some stage when you do this is down to you, luckily you where sensible enough to fit an oil pressure gauge as your first mod so you can see if its starting to go or stops

2, Oil feed for some reason on the classics is prone to crack (this is more for those that are going to track your car), there is divided opinion on why this happens, but of course you are safe as you fitted an oil pressure gauge as your first mod DIDNT you .

3, oil sump, a baffled sump is a most upgrade if your going to be Hammering the twisty roads/odd track day.

4, coil overs kk some of you will have noticed i havnt included these in the list so far, of course if your building a track machine this would be an early mod but then you wouldnt be Reading this list .

Tbh i dont Think you have needed them yet, if your looking at 1-2 track Days a year then i dont Think you should bother at all the mods youve done to the suspension and the standard dampers/springs are more than capable for your first few years.

The 7-10k ish that you havnt spent on these has just covered your Engine cost if for some reason it has gone bang

There is a huge minefield of coil overs out there and you will get so many opions on what is best but remember what works for one person doesnt mean it will work for someone else so do a lot of Reading try to have a ride in different cars with different setups.


Theres bound to be more mods id do on the way but thats a basic list of where id be going if it was me, hope that it helps someone
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